guide

Zeenat Kulavoor's Guide to 24 Hours in Bombay

Typographer, creative director and lifetime Bombayite Zeenat Kulavoor shares her top picks from her beloved city

Words by: Zeenat Kulavoor

After spending her life in Bombay, Zeenat Kulavoor can’t think of anywhere else to call home. And as a graphic designer and typographer, the enduring influence of Zeenat’s home city is immediately visible in what she does. As she explains: “We’re constantly observing the city and the way it’s changed over the last 20 to 30 years. We’ve seen it evolve and all of this comes out in our work.” Reflecting Bombay’s melting pot of cultures, Zeenat’s type work uses multiple Indian scripts including Kannada, Malayalam, Gujarati and Urdu (her speciality).

Zeenat is also creative director of Bombay Duck Designs – one of India’s earliest specialised design studios – set up by her brother Sameer Kulavoor in 2008. She joined the studio as a university graduate, beautifully complementing Sameer’s illustration style with her own extensive knowledge of design and typography.

We were fortunate enough to cross paths with Zeenat when seeking Bombay artists for a very special brief: to create first-class prints for gifting to Dishoom-wallas who had been with us for 10 years or more. In each print Zeenat created for us, there are nuances of the city, its people and the Irani cafés that we all know and love. So along the way, we couldn’t miss asking Zeenat for her top recommendations of things to see and do (and eat) in her beloved Bombay in 24 hours. Kindly read on to discover them.

A page from Prarthna Singh's book "Har Shaam Shaheen Bagh" designed by Bombay Duck Designs.


MORNING

Number1

Location:

Vinay Health Home

Opening times:

Mon–Tues, Thur-Sun: 8am to 9.30pm, Wed: Closed

Begin with a hearty, belly-filling breakfast

“When I’m in the mood for something local, I go to Vinay Health Home near Charni Road. It’s a very small, very old, local joint and they serve delicious breakfast dishes.”


NOON

Number2

Location:

TARQ

Take in some local art

“It’s hard to pick a favourite gallery. That said, I like visiting TARQ, near the Gateway of India. Going there is a different experience altogether – you enter Dhanraj Mahal, which is this beautiful building with gorgeous plants and massive trees and is truly something else. Time slows down when you visit the gallery and that’s why I love it. And of course, there are always lots of cats outside the gallery which is a big draw for me.”

Number3

Location:

The Gateway of India

Find a scenic spot to clear your mind

“I recommend being by the sea. At the Gateway of India, you can book a one-hour sailing trip on a little sailboat. It’s one of my favourite things to do in the city and a wonderful way to recharge.”

Number4

Location:

Haji Seekh at Mohammed Ali Road

Relish Bombay’s famous street food

“Mohammed Ali Road, but more specifically Haji Seekh at Mohammed Ali Road. They only sell sheekh kababs but they’re not online and you can’t find them on delivery platforms. You have to call to place an order and then send someone to pick it up. Or just go there and eat. It’s easily the best.”


NIGHT

Number5

Location:

Bombay Canteen

Opening times:

Mon–Fri: 12 pm to 1.30 am, Sat– Sunday: 11 am to 1.30 am

"I enjoy The Bombay Canteen in Lower Parel – their cocktails are amazing, the vibe is lovely and a great place to go when you’re with friends. Especially if I’m in the mood for beer, or a date night."