A Guide to Mohammed Ali Road

Perch at a plastic picnic table…

And prepare for every meat. This Muslim restaurant is unabashedly, whole-heartedly meaty. Twelve simmering pots lie before you, each having been lovingly tended to for hours, nurturing an unctuous curry. The lamb nihari is a fine choice. Slow, gentle cooking has allowed the fat, flesh and bone marrow to recline into a deeply flavoursome gravy. Take note: the bheja (brain), khiri (udder) and tongue appear only during Ramadan and are rare indulgences. Do not miss.

Pause for something sweet.

Unexpectedly, perhaps. But such is the local Bohri thaal tradition to alternate between savoury and sweet. Founded in 1887, Taj Ice Creams is now run by great-grandson Hatim and great-great grandson Aamir, two highly reputable Icecream-wallas. Sample the Alphonso mango and sitafal (custard apple) flavours – dense, rich with fruit and velvet-like beyond compare. As one of the last purveyors of hand-churned ice cream in Bombay, one must try a lick.

Kabab of legends

At the main drag of Mohammed Ali Road, the throngs of traffic and chorus of honking horns are a spectacle to behold. Continue shuffling merrily. Follow the crowds southwards. Noor Mohammedi will soon appear. Famous for its Chicken Shammi Kababs – chicken and chickpeas, ground very fine, spiced and fried into patties – it is said that this softer-than-soft dish was invented to feed a toothless nawab. Without exaggeration, they taste magical. Even more so during Ramadan.

Savoury ensues.

And for good reason. The greatness of these biryanis echoes through the crowds with high praise and enthusiasm. Biryanis play a central role during Ramadan, a centrepiece to many iftar tables, uniting loved ones at sundown to break fasts. Be not dissuaded by the line outside – what’s inside is so delicious that it's well-well worth the wait. (And should a trip to Bombay not be in the itinerary, we recommend our Awadhi Lamb Biryani as a delicious substitute.)

Make room for mawa jalebis (likely two)

Our final stop is surely the best jalebis in Bombay, made not with flour but with mawa (as per the family’s original recipe). Thin curls of rich milky mawa are piped into scalding hot oil and fried to golden effect. Forget how full you are, for one moment, and attempt a bite before it cools. Irresistibly sticky-sweet, to all who seek another: consider us happily unsurprised.